Recent searches

No recent searches

Search options

Only available when logged in.
mastodon.ie is one of the many independent Mastodon servers you can use to participate in the fediverse.
Irish Mastodon - run from Ireland, we welcome all who respect the community rules and members.

Administered by:

Server stats:

1.6K
active users

mastodon.ie: AboutProfiles directoryPrivacy policy

Mastodon: AboutGet the appKeyboard shortcutsView source codev4.4.3

#USBPD

0 posts0 participants0 posts today
Replied in thread
*
Ge0rG

@s0 thanks for nerdsniping me into buying a pair of the GaN PSUs!

The EU variant is also too thick for the Type C "Europlug" sockets, but works well in Type F!

What surprised me is that they announce PD dual-role-power with a 20V/1.5A consumer, so they might be misunderstood as a powerbank by too smart PD devices?!

And it will (very slowly, ~3.5h) charge my idle ThinkPad L15, so might be a usable travel adapter after all!

Output screenshot is from gist.github.com/ge0rg/085874e8

#USBPD#USB
Continued thread
Fran 🇦🇷

But not everything is pure pleasure in the world of USB PD. The USB PD charger I'm using is not a big deal, and has a standby power consumption of 0.125W when it's working at 5V (unpresentable for 2024 🙈), but when it's put to work at 20V the standby consumption goes to 1W! 😱. A 5W lamp that consumes 1W when turned off?!?! 💩

After a couple of days pondering this depressing result, I thought of trying something: Make the charger go back to 5V when the lamp is off!

🧵 #PortuariaLamp #USB #USBPD

Continued thread
Fran 🇦🇷

The solution? Use the new USB PD chargers, which can deliver different voltages if we ask them nicely 😁. I'm using a board with the HUSB238 to ask the charger to give me 20V, which is enough to turn on the 17V LED and makes everything work more efficient and cooler because the current in the cable is only 0.25A, converting from 220V to 20V is more efficient, and the step-down to regulate the LED current is more efficient than the step-up of the previous version.

🧵 #PortuariaLamp #USB #USBPD

*
-clasticartistic-

Swapped my Dreamcast's PSU. Planning on doing a GDEMU install at some point, and while the stock PSU is perfectly good, it being a PAL unit means it doesn't like the 12V rail not being used. The capacitor trick in the stock PSU seems a bit dodge, so decided to replace it with the Robot_Retro unit.

I'm using a uGreen Nexode mini 30W as the AC-DC.

Find it here: robotretro.co.uk/product/dream

#dreamcast#segadreamcast#psu
-clasticartistic-

Long shot, but has anyone had any experience with the Robot Retro USB-C Dreamcast power supply replacement? (Bonus if used one pared with the recommended uGreen Nexode mini 30W?)

#dreamcast #retrogaming #gaming #powersupply #psu #usbc #usbpd #retro #segadreamcast

robotretro.co.uk/product/dream

Robot_RetroDreamcast Replacement Power Supply USBC Type C Mod With 3D Printed Spacer | Robot_RetroBasics:The OEM Dreamcast power supply is a combined 110v/240v AC to DC converter. This is quite inefficient and noisy, which can manifest in a “fuzzy” video signal. Also, plugging in a UK 240v supply to a 110v Japanese Dreamcast can cause damage to the Dreamcast.What the robot_retro Dreamcast Power Board Offers:Powered from a 15v or 20v Power Delivery USBC charger (e.g. Ankur, Dell, uGreen, etc.). Most 30W charger USBC will work (they have to be able to output 15v/20v). I recommend the uGreen Nexode mini 30W as this both excellent quality and value.Tested to be between 90 and 95% efficient across all loads. Low signal noise and heat.Drop in solution. No soldering, wires or complicated install required.No flashing LEDS, perfect for clear shells.Works perfectly with GDEmu.Works with all Dreamcast models (PAL, Japanese, etc) and removes the risk of accidentally plugging in 240V into a 110V system and causing damage.Overvoltage, over temperature and fused supply.3D printed spacer.Other colours can be printed from the files here:https://www.printables.com/model/748998-dreamcast-usbc-3d-printed-spacerInstallation:See link for tutorial and review:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9iqdUs6OB4&ab_channel=JoeBleepsUnscrew the four bottom Dreamcast screws as shown in the photo.Remove the top lid and then remove the two power board screws (see photos).Fit the robot_retro board in exactly the same way as the OEM power board was removed.Fit 3D printer USBC spacer.Button up the console.
ToroidalCore

Okay, question for anyone familiar with USB PD. A while ago, I bought a USB car charger on Amazon - basically, it's meant to replace a cigarette lighter in a car, takes 12 V in, and has USB Type A and Type C connectors, and can do 65 watts total - 45 watts on the Type C PD connector. It charges my phone, my Dell XPS laptop, and charges a USB power brick I have. The brick shows voltage and current while charging, and shows 19.2 V and 2.7 A when charging the brick, which tracks with the 45 watt rating.

I bought a second one of these on Amazon, basically just reordered from the same listing. This one also charges my phone and the power brick, which shows the same voltage and power brick. However, if my laptop is on and I plug it into the new charger, the laptop does not charge. If the laptop is off and I plug it in, the charging light does turn on. I can turn the laptop on and it keeps charging after I boot and log in, but if I unplug the charger and plug it back in, it doesn't charge.

I exchanged the charger for another one, which behaves the same way. The laptop charges normally with its regular charger. I'm not sure if this is some quirk of USB, or the laptop, or something else I should have looked for when buying these chargers.

#USBPD
Continued thread
Sebastian Krzyszkowiak

Took me 3 days of soldering, but it works!

I can connect it to a Librem 5 and it automatically does all the needed PD stuff to expose its UART over USB-C 😁 It's also capable of a lot of other PD magic as a USB PD analyzer / injector / filter.

However, while these solder joints made a good job lasting till I got the firmware PoC working, it doesn't seem like they're going to last much longer... More soldering ahead 😫

#debubo#kicad#stm32
AfterDawn

Kännyköiden pikalataustekniikat ovat mielenkiintoinen sekasotku

Nyt, kun osa kännyköistä myydään kokonaan ilman laturia, koetimme selittää pikalataustekniikoiden erot - ja antaa vinkkimme pätevän laturin ostoon.

puhelinvertailu.com/uutiset/20

Puhelinvertailu · Opas: Kännyköiden pikalatauksen tekniikat - näin valitset oikean laturin kännykkäänBy Petteri Pyyny
#laturi#usbpd#pikalataus
*
chris@strafpla.net

#USBPD 3.0 has an optional #PPS (#ProgrammablePowerSupply) mode “allowing a voltage range of 3.3 to 21 V in 20 mV steps, and a current specified in 50 mA steps”(WP) so each competent USB charger is just lacking a nice UI and some components to be quite a capable bench power supply.
Here’s a project building exactly that:
hackaday.io/project/194295-poc
#PocketPD

hackaday.ioPocketPD - USB-C Portable Bench Power SupplyThe No Inductor power supply. This project utilizes PicoPD's previous work to prototype a bench power supply. Beside portable soldering iron, this should be one of the best portable tools for college electrical engineering students. This bench power supply is powered by USB-C PD 3.0/3.1 using their PPS capability. There is no buck or boost converter on the board as these component is already in your USB-C charger. We will explore how to implement constant voltage (CV) and constant current (CC), two modes that are featured in all of the standard bench power supplies.
TrendingLive feeds
About